(I have some, er, updating to do, here...)
And I didn't realize I hadn't ever started NZ or Australia, and I don't have time to do it thoroughly right now, but I just wanted to park this thought:
I was thinking that we'd just do the south island, until I saw that you can actually visit Hobbiton and stay in a nearby farm...
Might have to reconsider.
Thursday, July 5, 2012
Saturday, December 31, 2011
Kenya
Lonely Planet picks:
Taita Discovery Centre: Near Tsavo West National Park; has structured and tailored courses; also takes conservation-focused gap year volunteers http://www.aboriginal-ecotourism.org/spip.php?article291. Link with other parks / parts of the country through this (unvetted) tour company
Kenya Voluntary & Community Development Project: medium to long term gap year, and 3-4 week voluntours that take (accompanied) children. Frommers rec as well.
Inter-Community Development Involvement affiliated with University of Indiana; takes medium term gap year in AIDs and education work; registered US 501(c)3. Frommers rec as well.
Responsible Travel: starting point for finding tour operators; see family tailored safari & cultural tour
Taita Discovery Centre: Near Tsavo West National Park; has structured and tailored courses; also takes conservation-focused gap year volunteers http://www.aboriginal-ecotourism.org/spip.php?article291. Link with other parks / parts of the country through this (unvetted) tour company
Kenya Voluntary & Community Development Project: medium to long term gap year, and 3-4 week voluntours that take (accompanied) children. Frommers rec as well.
Inter-Community Development Involvement affiliated with University of Indiana; takes medium term gap year in AIDs and education work; registered US 501(c)3. Frommers rec as well.
Responsible Travel: starting point for finding tour operators; see family tailored safari & cultural tour
Eco-Resorts - Cultural tours, including homestays, and short trem family volunteering in Mura Masai region. Frommers rec as well.
IntoAfrica - "Fair-trade" and locally-based cultural trips; customized departures for groups as small as 5
Origins Safaris - Cultural tours. The 7-day conservation and 14-day education projects both look fabulous, though breathtakingly expensive.
Through Pack for a Purpose:
Deloraine Lodge: Great Rift Valley - affiliated elementary school. Lodge also organizes horseback safaris, though I don't think our riding abilities would be sufficient
Kicheche Bush Camps - Affiliated with London-based non-profit as well as PfaP; several locations; supports several schools and health clinics. Somewhat troubling, repeated emphasis on how little they value "rigid" scheduling...
Ol Donyo Lodge: Outpost for Ride Kenya Safaris (also, sadly, almost certainly beyond our riding ability); affiliated with two schools
Through Pack for a Purpose:
Deloraine Lodge: Great Rift Valley - affiliated elementary school. Lodge also organizes horseback safaris, though I don't think our riding abilities would be sufficient
Kicheche Bush Camps - Affiliated with London-based non-profit as well as PfaP; several locations; supports several schools and health clinics. Somewhat troubling, repeated emphasis on how little they value "rigid" scheduling...
Ol Donyo Lodge: Outpost for Ride Kenya Safaris (also, sadly, almost certainly beyond our riding ability); affiliated with two schools
Frommers Picks:
Lewa Wildlife Conservancy - Local NGO focused on conservation broadly defined; has some sort of accreditation system for "green" lodging and campsites; also supports wide range of community and education projects. LWC links to Pack for a Purpose, but only two of LWC's very long list of projects appear to be included in PfaP's programs. Frommers rec. as a starting place for finding volunteer placements; less clear how to use it this way but it *does* seem to be a possible vetting for lodging that's not top-top-end luxe.
Note: Generally Frommers is my go-to guide; in Africa (and Kenya in particular) they seem mostly just to rephrase and rehash Lonely Planet content.
Monday, September 12, 2011
Half the Sky: An interruption from our regularly (?!) scheduled...
linking, for some doubtless-scattered thinking.
Today, the big picture and my reactions to Half the Sky, by Kristoff and WuDunn.
I originally came up with the (brilliant! everyone should have one!) idea of a Digital Parking Lot when I was completing a graduate degree, fitting my studying in bits of time between ferrying three kids to three different schools, working part time, supervising homework, and (er, sort of... something has to be the priority that comes in last) managing a household. I found, then, that it was helpful to keep track of certain types of assignments, and even to DO certain types of assignments, on line, so I could pick them up from various computers at home, at school, at work, at the various libraries I dipped into, and at my kids' schools and work on them even for just a few minutes at a time. By parking in the Vast Interweb Ether, I always had access to the thoughts and words that were otherwise distributed on hard drives, notebooks and post-its that inevitably I'd Left Behind, somewhere.
I finished all that, and my Parking Lot sat unused for quite a while.
Then I decided to use it as a travel planning/dreaming tool. It's good for that, too, because filing links electronically is easier, and more cross-linkable, and useful, than writing them down on post-its (post-its being my other primary, um, organizational tool) and sticking them into guide books.
The beautiful thing about personal parking lots is: you can put any dang vehicle you want, in there. Run-down red minivans with 170K miles, malfunctioning passenger doors, and no air con... Spiffy Lexuses with big old macho engines... itty bitty red Priuses (I'm negotiating, down from the aforementioned minivan -- so done with being a minivan mom, here) or convertible red Saabs (I can dream). Red Vespa, even (though of course I'd never... well, at least while I had kids at home...)
So, now I think I'll use it now for a bit of thinking-out-loud on a different subject: charitable giving.
We do give, of course. But if I'm honest with myself (which I try to be, at least two or three days out of any given year), I'd have to say we give much as we live: mostly reactively. Without much thought either a priori or post hoc about where we give and why. The overwhelming majority -- I would guess more than 90% -- of our giving goes to our house of worship and to our children's schools. A bit of it goes to a few large organizations that we think are well run and doing critical work (like Doctors Without Borders and Heifer International), and to a slew of tree-hugger organizations who send me near-daily appeals. The rest of it goes to organizations with whom our friends and family have some sort of connection -- they're on the board, or they're running the benefit, or their child avails of services, etc.
There's nothing wrong with any of that. But I've recently read several books in quick succession, which together have challenged me to raise the bar a bit. Both to increase the total amount of our giving, and also to be more intentional in how we go about allocating it. I think I will write about them in order of Eureka! (rather than the order in which I read them-- because I'm still processing how they converge and what my overall takeaways should be). Today's is:
Half the Sky, by Nick Kristof and Sheryl WuDunn. The focus of the book is, as the subtitle puts it, "turning oppression into opportunity for women worldwide." As such, it devotes chapters to subtopics including sex trafficking, rape as a tool of war, honor killings, genital cutting, maternal mortality, and girls' education.
In a prior life, I worked in development, so I had some familiarity with many of the issues they cover. But the book does an extraordinary job channel-surfing between Sachs-Sen style overviews of how big picture policy, socioeconomic and cultural frameworks really do affect lives (for better and worse), and New York Times style features on individual human beings. Most writers -- most people, maybe -- focus either Big, or Small. Perhaps because they co-write, Kristof and WuDunn manage to do both.
Anyway. I've already found several takeaways I mean to add to The Things I Carry.
1. Don't let perfection be the enemy of the good, in trying to work out How To Make A Difference. While they profile a lot of local organizations that have accomplished a great deal of good, they also discuss a number of well-meaning efforts whose results were disappointing. What they remind us is that development is really, really hard; and failure is part of the process. We expect that of start-up businesses in the US; we expect that of stock market investments; we expect that of new interventions we attempt in school districts. Why are we so disappointed when it happens in development?
2. There are a lot of really great organizations out there, and Highly credible people are already vetting them for us. Many organizations are directly profiled in the book; the authors feature a number of very effective local organizations doing God's work throughout Asia and Africa (neatly profiled and linked in an appendix). Kristof regularly features more in his blog. They also point us to monitors such as Charity Navigator to help us with locating and understanding other organizations. The points are: 1) we don't have to limit our giving to big-name, big-picture organizations if we care about administrative efficiency; and 2) we don't have to re-invent the wheel trying to figure the smaller ones out -- other people are doing a good job with that for us, already.
3. There are simple, efficient ways to give directly to individuals in need. This gets back to the Big vs. Small orientation issue; the desire we have to give directly to individuals in need (as opposed to large organizations) connects to several of the other books I've been reading (and will discuss shortly). Kristof and Dunn tell us how to do it: through opening an account with Global Giving or Kiva. Both are people-to-people (meaning they link us directly to a person in need overseas); Global Giving focuses on grass roots projects in education, health or disaster relief; while Kiva provides microloans to entrepreneurs.
Over the next few days, I'll write more about the other books still churning around my head:
Mountains Beyond Mountains, by Tracy Kidder
Stumbling on Happiness, by Daniel Gilbert
The Black Swan, by Nassim Nicholas Taleb
The Tipping Point, by Malcom Gladwell
The Road of Lost Innocence, by Somaly Mam
Today, the big picture and my reactions to Half the Sky, by Kristoff and WuDunn.
I originally came up with the (brilliant! everyone should have one!) idea of a Digital Parking Lot when I was completing a graduate degree, fitting my studying in bits of time between ferrying three kids to three different schools, working part time, supervising homework, and (er, sort of... something has to be the priority that comes in last) managing a household. I found, then, that it was helpful to keep track of certain types of assignments, and even to DO certain types of assignments, on line, so I could pick them up from various computers at home, at school, at work, at the various libraries I dipped into, and at my kids' schools and work on them even for just a few minutes at a time. By parking in the Vast Interweb Ether, I always had access to the thoughts and words that were otherwise distributed on hard drives, notebooks and post-its that inevitably I'd Left Behind, somewhere.
I finished all that, and my Parking Lot sat unused for quite a while.
Then I decided to use it as a travel planning/dreaming tool. It's good for that, too, because filing links electronically is easier, and more cross-linkable, and useful, than writing them down on post-its (post-its being my other primary, um, organizational tool) and sticking them into guide books.
The beautiful thing about personal parking lots is: you can put any dang vehicle you want, in there. Run-down red minivans with 170K miles, malfunctioning passenger doors, and no air con... Spiffy Lexuses with big old macho engines... itty bitty red Priuses (I'm negotiating, down from the aforementioned minivan -- so done with being a minivan mom, here) or convertible red Saabs (I can dream). Red Vespa, even (though of course I'd never... well, at least while I had kids at home...)
So, now I think I'll use it now for a bit of thinking-out-loud on a different subject: charitable giving.
We do give, of course. But if I'm honest with myself (which I try to be, at least two or three days out of any given year), I'd have to say we give much as we live: mostly reactively. Without much thought either a priori or post hoc about where we give and why. The overwhelming majority -- I would guess more than 90% -- of our giving goes to our house of worship and to our children's schools. A bit of it goes to a few large organizations that we think are well run and doing critical work (like Doctors Without Borders and Heifer International), and to a slew of tree-hugger organizations who send me near-daily appeals. The rest of it goes to organizations with whom our friends and family have some sort of connection -- they're on the board, or they're running the benefit, or their child avails of services, etc.
There's nothing wrong with any of that. But I've recently read several books in quick succession, which together have challenged me to raise the bar a bit. Both to increase the total amount of our giving, and also to be more intentional in how we go about allocating it. I think I will write about them in order of Eureka! (rather than the order in which I read them-- because I'm still processing how they converge and what my overall takeaways should be). Today's is:
Half the Sky, by Nick Kristof and Sheryl WuDunn. The focus of the book is, as the subtitle puts it, "turning oppression into opportunity for women worldwide." As such, it devotes chapters to subtopics including sex trafficking, rape as a tool of war, honor killings, genital cutting, maternal mortality, and girls' education.
In a prior life, I worked in development, so I had some familiarity with many of the issues they cover. But the book does an extraordinary job channel-surfing between Sachs-Sen style overviews of how big picture policy, socioeconomic and cultural frameworks really do affect lives (for better and worse), and New York Times style features on individual human beings. Most writers -- most people, maybe -- focus either Big, or Small. Perhaps because they co-write, Kristof and WuDunn manage to do both.
Anyway. I've already found several takeaways I mean to add to The Things I Carry.
1. Don't let perfection be the enemy of the good, in trying to work out How To Make A Difference. While they profile a lot of local organizations that have accomplished a great deal of good, they also discuss a number of well-meaning efforts whose results were disappointing. What they remind us is that development is really, really hard; and failure is part of the process. We expect that of start-up businesses in the US; we expect that of stock market investments; we expect that of new interventions we attempt in school districts. Why are we so disappointed when it happens in development?
2. There are a lot of really great organizations out there, and Highly credible people are already vetting them for us. Many organizations are directly profiled in the book; the authors feature a number of very effective local organizations doing God's work throughout Asia and Africa (neatly profiled and linked in an appendix). Kristof regularly features more in his blog. They also point us to monitors such as Charity Navigator to help us with locating and understanding other organizations. The points are: 1) we don't have to limit our giving to big-name, big-picture organizations if we care about administrative efficiency; and 2) we don't have to re-invent the wheel trying to figure the smaller ones out -- other people are doing a good job with that for us, already.
3. There are simple, efficient ways to give directly to individuals in need. This gets back to the Big vs. Small orientation issue; the desire we have to give directly to individuals in need (as opposed to large organizations) connects to several of the other books I've been reading (and will discuss shortly). Kristof and Dunn tell us how to do it: through opening an account with Global Giving or Kiva. Both are people-to-people (meaning they link us directly to a person in need overseas); Global Giving focuses on grass roots projects in education, health or disaster relief; while Kiva provides microloans to entrepreneurs.
Over the next few days, I'll write more about the other books still churning around my head:
Mountains Beyond Mountains, by Tracy Kidder
Stumbling on Happiness, by Daniel Gilbert
The Black Swan, by Nassim Nicholas Taleb
The Tipping Point, by Malcom Gladwell
The Road of Lost Innocence, by Somaly Mam
Sunday, May 15, 2011
Japan
Pillars: History/Buddhism/Shinto/culture
wwoof Japan (start Y5,500 membership approximately 6 months before we want to go)
Ryokan Association (search by region)
Japanese Guesthouse Association (search by region)
Overnight temple stays (most in Koya-san, Kyoto and Nare). If you go to Japan with your family, DO A TEMPLE STAY. Oh my word ours was the coolest thing ever. (We did Eko-in in the Koya-san complex; see below.) This booking site is the best one, with direct links to the temples' own web sites if they have them and low mark-ups if you book through them. This site comes up first in google searches but their rate quotes are often out of date. (search by region). Temple-specific reviews in English are a little hard to track down, but honestly -- it's Japan, you won't go wrong. This one is well-reviewed...
National Park guesthouses run by the Department of Environment throughout the country. They look fun.
JR Railpass (as of 5/11: 14 day approx. $757 green/558 regular; 7 day approx. $468 green/350 regular)
Nagoya:
Stay (Night 1) in Toyota Castle Hotel (rental or airport bus ~70 minutes). Update: It was hard to get information about accommodations in Toyota City; I guess it's off the beaten path. The Castle was more than adequate. Very comfortable rooms, very helpful staff, excellent breakfast.
See (Day 2): Toyota factory tour (M-F, English tours are 10:30-1). This was GREAT.
On to: Ise Jingu (peninsula SE of Nagoya; maybe 2 hours? from Toyota)
Stay (nights 2 and 3) in Hoshide-kan (direct site here; TA feedback here) in Ise Jingu. This place was spectacular, though English skills are quite limited (fortunately we had a Japanese speaker in our midst) and like most of traditional Japan, it lacks central heating.
Backups: Ise City Hotel nearby (LP); or Asakichi ryokan (Frommers); Daisoso ryokan in tiny village of Daio (Fodors); or Ishiyama-so in significantly more remote island of Yokoyama-jima (Frommer review here; sole TA review in Japanese)
See (Days 3 and 4): Ise Jingu Shinto grand shrines; Ise-Shima National Park; fishing villages with cormorant fisherman; pearl divers and public onsen in Toba (onsen appears, hilariously, to be part of Spain Village which also features flamenco dancing... - scroll down to item #5 on peninsula highlights); small village atmosphere. Also on the peninsula is the Edo Wonderland (Frommer review here), a theme park devoted to the Shogun era, with demonstrations and geisha show.
Stop en route (Day 4) in: Iga Ueno (100 km SW of Nagoya; on JR line)
To see: Iga-Ryu Ninja museum ("energetic demonstrations of... throwing swords, daggers and sickles") open Wed-Mon 11-3; also Basho memorial and gardens in adjacent Ueno Park
On to Kyoto (maybe 2 hours, excluding stop?)
Kyoto:
Sleep (nights 4 and 5) Yachiyo ryokan next to Nanzen-ji temple (Fodors rec; expensive but looks lovely). This is a "modern" ryokan; not as charming as the "traditional" ones, but on the other hand it does have central heating, not to be underestimated when traveling with children. Very good location.
Backups: Westin Miyako: central locaction - TA feedback here;
Hyatt Regency Kyoto: ALXN rec
See:
Kinkakuji (15th c/ rebuilt) Golden Pavillion and nearby Ryoanji Temple (Ryoanji has well-rated restaurant within the zen rock garden) NW corner. We did eat at the restaurant and it was FAB. They gave us a private room (there were 9 of us all together, including boisterous kids) overlooking a gorgeous enclosed rock garden. Just lovely.
Ginkakuji Silver Pavillion, Philosophers' Pathway, and Nanzenji temple all near our ryokan (see Frommer's walking tour for restaurant stops, including Junsei bento lunch in a garden and Goemonjaya for quicker noodles)
Sanjusangen-do (Next door to Hyatt) 1001 Buddhas ALXN
Kyoto International Community House - can arrange home visits with local family (must appear in person, and show passports). We didn't do this -- as mentioned, there were 9 of us and it just seemed too unwieldy -- but with a smaller crowd I'd definitely do it.
Klexon - cultural exchange association with emphasis on Japanese - English practice; has weekly Tuesday night meetings and organizes BBQs, excursions, volunteer work etc
Kiyomizu-dera district - old pedestrian street with old architecture with tea shops, pagodas, etc (Fodor star)
Outside Kyoto (um, I think):
? Ninn-ji Omuru-Kaikan temple (fish dinner; geared for children) or
? Myoshin-ji Daishin-in temple (outskirts of town), or
? Jyorengein temple (mountain on outskirts of town), or
Koya-san temple complex:
Check out Dai-mon complex of 120 temples, monasteries, schools set in mountain valley (World Heritage site). This is the coolest place I've ever been to in Japan. Unbelievable. We only stayed one night and I was so, so sorry we hadn't planned on longer. Thus far, only Japanese nationals and middle aged gay couples seem to have discovered it. It *is* rather difficult to get to -- we were in a rental car, and the roads are rather hair-raising (good condition, but very winding and narrow -- would NOT want to do it in snowy conditions) and the public transport looks to be rather a nightmare. So.worth.it, though.
Stay (Night 8): one of the many temples - try:
Eko-in (LP and Frommers) We did this one, and it was GREAT. Wide polished hardwood floors throughout, beautiful gardens, spacious and pretty rooms, very plain/zen but peaceful and attractive baths, excellent (vegan) dinner. (No central heating, of course.) Only one of the monks spoke extensive English (our Japanese speaker had departed by this poing), but all were tremendously friendly and helpful. We joined them for the ancestor memorial service and the fire ceremony in the morning -- both fascinating. They have both wifi and beer-u, for those who care about such things.
Rengejo-in (Fodors)
Ichizyo-in (appears to be centrally located; can accommodate kids; does calligraphy)
Kumagai-ji (dunno a blessed thing about this one, but it's so tiny and has an English website and looks so dang cute! Let's at least stop by and check it out)
Then down to Yunomine or Kawa-yu onsen region
Stay (nights 9,10,11):
Try in Yunomine: Adumaya (~Y11,000 pp/night) *the bridge to Yunomine was washed out during our stay, so we couldn't try this*
in Kawa-yu: Fujiya (~Y16,000 pp/night and much larger)
Note: This site is nothing but a list of links to Wakayama region ryokans' individual sites, but since getting direct contact can be so difficult, it's useful to keep on hand. The various booking sites are often the only way to work around the language issues and no-credit-card issues; but they are poorly equipped to deal with any complications such as children, or dinner one night room-only the next, etc.
Final night: back in Sheraton...
Last night near Kansai airport:
(I'm pretty sure that) all of these are within a 40 minute train ride (south) of the airport. Of them, maybe try Mantei onsen...
Or, for the firm of heart, Rural village excursion:
Start with Hygogo tourist board guide to pick one
Then pick a ryokan with onsen from this or one of the nation-wide associations
Volunteer guides who want to practice English available in Kobe, Hanshin, and variety of other towns (no guide fee; just expenses)
Osaka:
Noodle factory museum - this was actually a highlight! We were the only gaijins there (but all the instructions were helpfully printed in English). Especially good with kids, although it appeared, implausibly, to be a popular date spot... (Japan is so excellent...)
Hilton Osaka ALXN
Shitennoji Temple 6th c. (!! and not rebuilt!!) Oldest original Buddhist temple in Japan; TA reviews very positive though many are focused on flea market that takes place on 21st of each month
Osaka Castle (Osaka-jo Koen-mae station) Reconstructed 16th c. ALXN. This was actually terrific.
Sumiyoshi-taisha (Sumihoshi Koen station) established 3rd c. (!!!) - one of oldest Shinto shrines in Japan; predates Buddhism; guardian diety patron of sailors
Buraku Theatre (Noh-style but with puppets; Osaka is world center); near "essential Osaka experience" of Dotombori-dori nightlife scene
Osaka Aquarium: TA reviews very positive; Fodor starred; has street performers on weekends. This was also great.
Human Rights Museum (Ashihara station)
Hattori Ryokuchi Koen (Ryokuchi Koen station) - Museum of Old Japanese Farmhouses with outdoor Kabuki, re-enactors etc
Mimiu Soba hot pot till you drop :o) ALXN
Tsururhashi district (Tsuruhashi station - Korea Town) for poke-o-rama and yaki-niku BBQ
wwoof Japan (start Y5,500 membership approximately 6 months before we want to go)
Ryokan Association (search by region)
Japanese Guesthouse Association (search by region)
Overnight temple stays (most in Koya-san, Kyoto and Nare). If you go to Japan with your family, DO A TEMPLE STAY. Oh my word ours was the coolest thing ever. (We did Eko-in in the Koya-san complex; see below.) This booking site is the best one, with direct links to the temples' own web sites if they have them and low mark-ups if you book through them. This site comes up first in google searches but their rate quotes are often out of date. (search by region). Temple-specific reviews in English are a little hard to track down, but honestly -- it's Japan, you won't go wrong. This one is well-reviewed...
National Park guesthouses run by the Department of Environment throughout the country. They look fun.
JR Railpass (as of 5/11: 14 day approx. $757 green/558 regular; 7 day approx. $468 green/350 regular)
Nagoya:
Stay (Night 1) in Toyota Castle Hotel (rental or airport bus ~70 minutes). Update: It was hard to get information about accommodations in Toyota City; I guess it's off the beaten path. The Castle was more than adequate. Very comfortable rooms, very helpful staff, excellent breakfast.
See (Day 2): Toyota factory tour (M-F, English tours are 10:30-1). This was GREAT.
On to: Ise Jingu (peninsula SE of Nagoya; maybe 2 hours? from Toyota)
Stay (nights 2 and 3) in Hoshide-kan (direct site here; TA feedback here) in Ise Jingu. This place was spectacular, though English skills are quite limited (fortunately we had a Japanese speaker in our midst) and like most of traditional Japan, it lacks central heating.
Backups: Ise City Hotel nearby (LP); or Asakichi ryokan (Frommers); Daisoso ryokan in tiny village of Daio (Fodors); or Ishiyama-so in significantly more remote island of Yokoyama-jima (Frommer review here; sole TA review in Japanese)
See (Days 3 and 4): Ise Jingu Shinto grand shrines; Ise-Shima National Park; fishing villages with cormorant fisherman; pearl divers and public onsen in Toba (onsen appears, hilariously, to be part of Spain Village which also features flamenco dancing... - scroll down to item #5 on peninsula highlights); small village atmosphere. Also on the peninsula is the Edo Wonderland (Frommer review here), a theme park devoted to the Shogun era, with demonstrations and geisha show.
Stop en route (Day 4) in: Iga Ueno (100 km SW of Nagoya; on JR line)
To see: Iga-Ryu Ninja museum ("energetic demonstrations of... throwing swords, daggers and sickles") open Wed-Mon 11-3; also Basho memorial and gardens in adjacent Ueno Park
On to Kyoto (maybe 2 hours, excluding stop?)
Kyoto:
Sleep (nights 4 and 5) Yachiyo ryokan next to Nanzen-ji temple (Fodors rec; expensive but looks lovely). This is a "modern" ryokan; not as charming as the "traditional" ones, but on the other hand it does have central heating, not to be underestimated when traveling with children. Very good location.
Backups: Westin Miyako: central locaction - TA feedback here;
Hyatt Regency Kyoto: ALXN rec
See:
Kinkakuji (15th c/ rebuilt) Golden Pavillion and nearby Ryoanji Temple (Ryoanji has well-rated restaurant within the zen rock garden) NW corner. We did eat at the restaurant and it was FAB. They gave us a private room (there were 9 of us all together, including boisterous kids) overlooking a gorgeous enclosed rock garden. Just lovely.
Ginkakuji Silver Pavillion, Philosophers' Pathway, and Nanzenji temple all near our ryokan (see Frommer's walking tour for restaurant stops, including Junsei bento lunch in a garden and Goemonjaya for quicker noodles)
Sanjusangen-do (Next door to Hyatt) 1001 Buddhas ALXN
Kyoto International Community House - can arrange home visits with local family (must appear in person, and show passports). We didn't do this -- as mentioned, there were 9 of us and it just seemed too unwieldy -- but with a smaller crowd I'd definitely do it.
Klexon - cultural exchange association with emphasis on Japanese - English practice; has weekly Tuesday night meetings and organizes BBQs, excursions, volunteer work etc
Kiyomizu-dera district - old pedestrian street with old architecture with tea shops, pagodas, etc (Fodor star)
Outside Kyoto (um, I think):
? Ninn-ji Omuru-Kaikan temple (fish dinner; geared for children) or
? Myoshin-ji Daishin-in temple (outskirts of town), or
? Jyorengein temple (mountain on outskirts of town), or
Koya-san temple complex:
Check out Dai-mon complex of 120 temples, monasteries, schools set in mountain valley (World Heritage site). This is the coolest place I've ever been to in Japan. Unbelievable. We only stayed one night and I was so, so sorry we hadn't planned on longer. Thus far, only Japanese nationals and middle aged gay couples seem to have discovered it. It *is* rather difficult to get to -- we were in a rental car, and the roads are rather hair-raising (good condition, but very winding and narrow -- would NOT want to do it in snowy conditions) and the public transport looks to be rather a nightmare. So.worth.it, though.
Stay (Night 8): one of the many temples - try:
Eko-in (LP and Frommers) We did this one, and it was GREAT. Wide polished hardwood floors throughout, beautiful gardens, spacious and pretty rooms, very plain/zen but peaceful and attractive baths, excellent (vegan) dinner. (No central heating, of course.) Only one of the monks spoke extensive English (our Japanese speaker had departed by this poing), but all were tremendously friendly and helpful. We joined them for the ancestor memorial service and the fire ceremony in the morning -- both fascinating. They have both wifi and beer-u, for those who care about such things.
Rengejo-in (Fodors)
Ichizyo-in (appears to be centrally located; can accommodate kids; does calligraphy)
Kumagai-ji (dunno a blessed thing about this one, but it's so tiny and has an English website and looks so dang cute! Let's at least stop by and check it out)
Then down to Yunomine or Kawa-yu onsen region
Stay (nights 9,10,11):
Try in Yunomine: Adumaya (~Y11,000 pp/night) *the bridge to Yunomine was washed out during our stay, so we couldn't try this*
in Kawa-yu: Fujiya (~Y16,000 pp/night and much larger)
Note: This site is nothing but a list of links to Wakayama region ryokans' individual sites, but since getting direct contact can be so difficult, it's useful to keep on hand. The various booking sites are often the only way to work around the language issues and no-credit-card issues; but they are poorly equipped to deal with any complications such as children, or dinner one night room-only the next, etc.
Final night: back in Sheraton...
Last night near Kansai airport:
(I'm pretty sure that) all of these are within a 40 minute train ride (south) of the airport. Of them, maybe try Mantei onsen...
Or, for the firm of heart, Rural village excursion:
Start with Hygogo tourist board guide to pick one
Then pick a ryokan with onsen from this or one of the nation-wide associations
Volunteer guides who want to practice English available in Kobe, Hanshin, and variety of other towns (no guide fee; just expenses)
Osaka:
Noodle factory museum - this was actually a highlight! We were the only gaijins there (but all the instructions were helpfully printed in English). Especially good with kids, although it appeared, implausibly, to be a popular date spot... (Japan is so excellent...)
Hilton Osaka ALXN
Shitennoji Temple 6th c. (!! and not rebuilt!!) Oldest original Buddhist temple in Japan; TA reviews very positive though many are focused on flea market that takes place on 21st of each month
Osaka Castle (Osaka-jo Koen-mae station) Reconstructed 16th c. ALXN. This was actually terrific.
Sumiyoshi-taisha (Sumihoshi Koen station) established 3rd c. (!!!) - one of oldest Shinto shrines in Japan; predates Buddhism; guardian diety patron of sailors
Buraku Theatre (Noh-style but with puppets; Osaka is world center); near "essential Osaka experience" of Dotombori-dori nightlife scene
Osaka Aquarium: TA reviews very positive; Fodor starred; has street performers on weekends. This was also great.
Human Rights Museum (Ashihara station)
Hattori Ryokuchi Koen (Ryokuchi Koen station) - Museum of Old Japanese Farmhouses with outdoor Kabuki, re-enactors etc
Mimiu Soba hot pot till you drop :o) ALXN
Tsururhashi district (Tsuruhashi station - Korea Town) for poke-o-rama and yaki-niku BBQ
Monday, April 18, 2011
Hiatus... Hoping: South Asia
Pillars: Volunteering, Ecology Study
Accommodation:
Cambodia / Phnom Penh: Meas Family Homestay Affiliated with Pack for a Purpose and Books for Cambodia (registered New Zealand charity); organizes short term teaching with local primary schools UB
Cambodia / Siem Reap: Shinta Mani Affiliated with Stay Another Day; runs elementary school adjacent to hotel. We participated in one of their community development projects several years ago. Currently (4/11) closed for renovations (evidently upgrading considerably from prior, very acceptable but fairly modest, facility. Recently opened sister facility in LP/Laos.
Cambodia / Siem Reap: Sala Bai Affiliated with French development agency and partner NGO; looks more like Shinta Mani looked four years ago. Runs very small (4 room) hotel and restaurant; affiliated with a number of local projects.
Laos / Northest of Vientiane: Rivertime Ecolodge Affiliated with Pack for a Purpose; has wealth of cultural immersion activities and short term volunteering. TA feedback largely positive, including from several families. UB
Laos / Luang Prabang: Shinta Mani Affiliated with Stay Another Day and sister property in Siem Reap. Looks very very posh...
Volunteering:
Conservation in Borneo with GVI: MB; listed as one of the family-friendly projects. I also like their teaching english to monks in LP/Laos but that one is NOT listed as family friendly; as well as several attractive teaching/orphanage projects in Thailand.
Ponheary Ly Foundation in Cambodia: UB various opportunities with schools; linked by sixintheworld but they may just have stayed in the guesthouse; not clear if appropriate for families
Volunteer Thailand: Vast database from idealist.org of local NGOs in Thailand. Most want 3+ month commitment, but some are shorter term and a handful explicitly welcome families; peruse anew closer to timeframe.
Isara in Nong Khai, Thailand (not too far in *distance* from Laos border crossing SE of Vientiane): From Volunteer Thailand; network of primary schools plus they run their own (free, volunteer run) evening English class for adults. Open to families but they suggest finding own accommodations; will help find short term apartment. UB
AboutAsia Schools: Cambodian non-profit, also registered as US 501(c)3, supporting 6 schools in Siem Reap. Affiliated with Points of Light.
Tibetan Children's Village in Dharamsala, India (JM works here); won Opera Montessori Internacionale award in 2000
In-country logistics:
Tiger Trail / Fair Trek: For profit, Dutch/German/Lao company specializing in cultural immersion / voluntourism. Most of the LP-based trips MB
Accommodation:
Cambodia / Phnom Penh: Meas Family Homestay Affiliated with Pack for a Purpose and Books for Cambodia (registered New Zealand charity); organizes short term teaching with local primary schools UB
Cambodia / Siem Reap: Shinta Mani Affiliated with Stay Another Day; runs elementary school adjacent to hotel. We participated in one of their community development projects several years ago. Currently (4/11) closed for renovations (evidently upgrading considerably from prior, very acceptable but fairly modest, facility. Recently opened sister facility in LP/Laos.
Cambodia / Siem Reap: Sala Bai Affiliated with French development agency and partner NGO; looks more like Shinta Mani looked four years ago. Runs very small (4 room) hotel and restaurant; affiliated with a number of local projects.
Laos / Northest of Vientiane: Rivertime Ecolodge Affiliated with Pack for a Purpose; has wealth of cultural immersion activities and short term volunteering. TA feedback largely positive, including from several families. UB
Laos / Luang Prabang: Shinta Mani Affiliated with Stay Another Day and sister property in Siem Reap. Looks very very posh...
Volunteering:
Conservation in Borneo with GVI: MB; listed as one of the family-friendly projects. I also like their teaching english to monks in LP/Laos but that one is NOT listed as family friendly; as well as several attractive teaching/orphanage projects in Thailand.
Ponheary Ly Foundation in Cambodia: UB various opportunities with schools; linked by sixintheworld but they may just have stayed in the guesthouse; not clear if appropriate for families
Volunteer Thailand: Vast database from idealist.org of local NGOs in Thailand. Most want 3+ month commitment, but some are shorter term and a handful explicitly welcome families; peruse anew closer to timeframe.
Isara in Nong Khai, Thailand (not too far in *distance* from Laos border crossing SE of Vientiane): From Volunteer Thailand; network of primary schools plus they run their own (free, volunteer run) evening English class for adults. Open to families but they suggest finding own accommodations; will help find short term apartment. UB
AboutAsia Schools: Cambodian non-profit, also registered as US 501(c)3, supporting 6 schools in Siem Reap. Affiliated with Points of Light.
Tibetan Children's Village in Dharamsala, India (JM works here); won Opera Montessori Internacionale award in 2000
In-country logistics:
Tiger Trail / Fair Trek: For profit, Dutch/German/Lao company specializing in cultural immersion / voluntourism. Most of the LP-based trips MB
Tuesday, April 12, 2011
Hiatus... Hoping: Connecting the Dots
(even for a Digital Parking Lot of half-baked ideas with nothing but unvetted links, this post is PARTICULARLY half-baked with almost completely unvetted links... but the idea is, as I dream about places we'd love to go and experiences we'd love to plunge into in a hiatus year, we also remember the skills we can bring to the table)
(Thousand) Points of Light Institute: Focus on "skills-based volunteer" matching and corporate partnerships. Existing centers in El Salvador, the Philippines (particularly good website -- useful model), Shanghai, Delhi (interesting-looking structured professional sabbatical with legal / pharma potential), Brazil, Korea (link doesn't work) and Zimbabwe (link doesn't work); as well as Amsterdam, Ottawa and Tokyo. All have NYC Cares-type short term opportunities; Philippines and India have longer term as well; the better websites demonstrate corporate sponsorship and in some cases USAID and Netherlands development assistance.
Idealist.org: Massive, global database searchable by countries which includes both agency and direct volunteer placements. Good starting point by country.
Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation: Focus on grants (wide range, but bulk in developing world seem to be $0.5-1.5M) oriented mostly to public health and post-secondary education. Remarkably transparent site, including primer on strategy / grantmaking / assessment / adjustment cycle with extraordinarily matter-of-fact assessment of lessons learned. Generally awards to smaller implementing NGOs (Heifer, Habitat, CARE etc) within strategy areas, which in turn appear to be set regionally; though some larger awards are to UN affiliates (ie IFPRI) and some smaller ones to local institutions (particularly universities). Relatively less active in South America; no projects in either Ecuador or Peru.
Ford Foundation: Focus on grants (most $150-250K) to smaller NGOs. Programs in all regions; strategic emphasis on Expanding Community Rights over Natural Resources (projects in Brazil, Indonesia, China, East Africa, Mexico) most obvious fit; many other bits and pieces, particularly for training, under economic justice, climate change, and expansion of microfinance. Partners with both big (UNDP, Oxfam) and tiny local NGOs. Regional offices in Santiago (serving Peru), Johannesburg (serving Southern Africa), and Delhi (India, Nepal and Sri Lanka), among others.
Clinton Global Initiative: All-star board and membership; focus on private-public partnerships.
Business Call to Action: Private-public partnerships; privates include Barclays, Pfizer, Microsoft, Ericcson, Tata; publics include USAID, UNDP, UK, Canadian and Australian aid organizations
Open Society Foundation (Soros): Main focus is Eastern Europe / democratization; but limited selected projects in education (particularly secondary and post-secondary) in South America and Asia.
LexMundiProBono: Legal work to various projects (unclear if you have to be in a participating firm to participate)
Whole Planet Foundation (Whole Foods!!): Focus (obviously) on organic / sustainable agriculture, apparently mostly by supporting microcredit. Surprisingly large grants (up to 300K), many in Central America, handful in Peru, Bolivia etc.
GMR Varalakshmi Foundation (GM Rao): Historic focus on public health, entrepreneurial development and community-based institutional development; Rao recently pledged $340M more, the bulk of which is slated for primary education. (India only)
Global Giving: Simple site that (apparently) enables funds to flow more or less directly from global donors to (relatively) local NGOs. Process for nominating local organizations, which then undergo due diligence process. Affiliated with Whole Planet Foundation and other vetted organizations; written up in NYT and WSJ.
stay-another-day.org: IFC-initiated partnership to facilitate sustainable tourism; currently have Mekong programs in Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam; plan to expand into Southern Africa as well. Partners include LP, Climate Care, Sustainable Travel International and worldhotel-link.com. Short term, well-vetted opportunities for volunteering and engagement. (We participated in one of these projects in Cambodia several years ago and ate/shopped at several of the Vietnam projects; it's definitely worth tracking down the country booklet.) Link isn't working today (4/14).
Worldhotel Travel is a global search/booking database, putatively for hotels, tour operators and eco-lodges that are locally run and sustainably operated (self-selected, I think). For some countries that are otherwise hard to get good information on (Swaziland), it might be a good starting point.
Sustainable Travel International appears (?), among other things, to act as a clearinghouse for online donors to contribute (more or less) directly to local organizations/projects once they have been (?) vetted for appropriateness. Program is somehow (?) linked with Global Giving, which is 501(c)3; however it's not clear if donations through it are deductible.
Pack for a Purpose: Devote 5 pounds of your suitcase capacity to bringing in school or medical supplies when you're otherwise staying at a participating eco-lodge (just drop package off at the check-in desk). US 501(c)3 affiliated with Sustainable Travel International. (Many of my already-discovered gems, including Hotel de la Paix and Black Sheep Inn, participate -- site is probably useful just to search for funky accommodations.) This pretty much defines low-hanging fruit.
Virgin Money Giving: Evidently a lot of businesses are setting up similar programs to funnel donations to (not particularly vetted) local organizations; I like this one because it's unusually transparent on its fee structure. Eventually I'll find a US-based one, but for the moment this is the model.
(Thousand) Points of Light Institute: Focus on "skills-based volunteer" matching and corporate partnerships. Existing centers in El Salvador, the Philippines (particularly good website -- useful model), Shanghai, Delhi (interesting-looking structured professional sabbatical with legal / pharma potential), Brazil, Korea (link doesn't work) and Zimbabwe (link doesn't work); as well as Amsterdam, Ottawa and Tokyo. All have NYC Cares-type short term opportunities; Philippines and India have longer term as well; the better websites demonstrate corporate sponsorship and in some cases USAID and Netherlands development assistance.
Idealist.org: Massive, global database searchable by countries which includes both agency and direct volunteer placements. Good starting point by country.
Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation: Focus on grants (wide range, but bulk in developing world seem to be $0.5-1.5M) oriented mostly to public health and post-secondary education. Remarkably transparent site, including primer on strategy / grantmaking / assessment / adjustment cycle with extraordinarily matter-of-fact assessment of lessons learned. Generally awards to smaller implementing NGOs (Heifer, Habitat, CARE etc) within strategy areas, which in turn appear to be set regionally; though some larger awards are to UN affiliates (ie IFPRI) and some smaller ones to local institutions (particularly universities). Relatively less active in South America; no projects in either Ecuador or Peru.
Ford Foundation: Focus on grants (most $150-250K) to smaller NGOs. Programs in all regions; strategic emphasis on Expanding Community Rights over Natural Resources (projects in Brazil, Indonesia, China, East Africa, Mexico) most obvious fit; many other bits and pieces, particularly for training, under economic justice, climate change, and expansion of microfinance. Partners with both big (UNDP, Oxfam) and tiny local NGOs. Regional offices in Santiago (serving Peru), Johannesburg (serving Southern Africa), and Delhi (India, Nepal and Sri Lanka), among others.
Clinton Global Initiative: All-star board and membership; focus on private-public partnerships.
Business Call to Action: Private-public partnerships; privates include Barclays, Pfizer, Microsoft, Ericcson, Tata; publics include USAID, UNDP, UK, Canadian and Australian aid organizations
Open Society Foundation (Soros): Main focus is Eastern Europe / democratization; but limited selected projects in education (particularly secondary and post-secondary) in South America and Asia.
LexMundiProBono: Legal work to various projects (unclear if you have to be in a participating firm to participate)
Whole Planet Foundation (Whole Foods!!): Focus (obviously) on organic / sustainable agriculture, apparently mostly by supporting microcredit. Surprisingly large grants (up to 300K), many in Central America, handful in Peru, Bolivia etc.
GMR Varalakshmi Foundation (GM Rao): Historic focus on public health, entrepreneurial development and community-based institutional development; Rao recently pledged $340M more, the bulk of which is slated for primary education. (India only)
Global Giving: Simple site that (apparently) enables funds to flow more or less directly from global donors to (relatively) local NGOs. Process for nominating local organizations, which then undergo due diligence process. Affiliated with Whole Planet Foundation and other vetted organizations; written up in NYT and WSJ.
stay-another-day.org: IFC-initiated partnership to facilitate sustainable tourism; currently have Mekong programs in Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam; plan to expand into Southern Africa as well. Partners include LP, Climate Care, Sustainable Travel International and worldhotel-link.com. Short term, well-vetted opportunities for volunteering and engagement. (We participated in one of these projects in Cambodia several years ago and ate/shopped at several of the Vietnam projects; it's definitely worth tracking down the country booklet.) Link isn't working today (4/14).
Worldhotel Travel is a global search/booking database, putatively for hotels, tour operators and eco-lodges that are locally run and sustainably operated (self-selected, I think). For some countries that are otherwise hard to get good information on (Swaziland), it might be a good starting point.
Sustainable Travel International appears (?), among other things, to act as a clearinghouse for online donors to contribute (more or less) directly to local organizations/projects once they have been (?) vetted for appropriateness. Program is somehow (?) linked with Global Giving, which is 501(c)3; however it's not clear if donations through it are deductible.
Pack for a Purpose: Devote 5 pounds of your suitcase capacity to bringing in school or medical supplies when you're otherwise staying at a participating eco-lodge (just drop package off at the check-in desk). US 501(c)3 affiliated with Sustainable Travel International. (Many of my already-discovered gems, including Hotel de la Paix and Black Sheep Inn, participate -- site is probably useful just to search for funky accommodations.) This pretty much defines low-hanging fruit.
Virgin Money Giving: Evidently a lot of businesses are setting up similar programs to funnel donations to (not particularly vetted) local organizations; I like this one because it's unusually transparent on its fee structure. Eventually I'll find a US-based one, but for the moment this is the model.
Wednesday, April 6, 2011
Hiatus... Hoping: South Africa / Southern Africa
Maps:
Zoomable roadmap
Jiwire's hotspots (lots of them)
Pillars: Volunteering, Ecology, Safari
Book Bus - Zambia program has taken families before NQ and includes side trip to Victoria Falls; also does safari trips originating and ending in Lilongwe, Malawi; and another route entirely within Malawi
Orca Foundation - marine research / ecotourism with voluntouristy component an hour or so (? maybe more?) outside Capetown.
Enkosini - Alleged US registered 501(c)3 (?) affiliated with range of conservation projects, mostly around Kruger and Capetown. Essentially eco-tourism; not clear what volunteers *do*; but that may fit the bill for families... director noted that Enkosini Wildlife Reserve, Makalali Game Reserve, and Whale & Dolphin Marine Project are suitable for families. Concerned that though they list as 501(c)3, the number does not actually turn up with Charity Navigator or the IRS.
Kariega - several eco-lodges along "Garden Route" on Cape; take short term volunteers as well as eco-tourist kinds of projects
Siyafunda - Rehab center near Kruger
help2read - South African-registered NGO outside Capetown, affiliated with Books for Africa; variety
of very short term (ie office help for one afternoon) to gap year teaching opportunities (18+); Goodwill Globetrotting keeps Pack-for-a-Purpose-like wishlist running for them
you2africa - help2read-linked database of a handful of Capetown-based projects, including seven schools, taking (18+) medium and longterm volunteers
United Planet does not have program in South Africa; Tanzania teaching & orphanage programs are open to families NQM at "basic" program; NAA at full-service including (attractive) excursions
Daktari Bush School and Wildlife Orphanage: Enrichment/support for middle school kids and animal rehab center in Limpopo (near Kruger); extensive (rather cooked) TA feedback; but also affiliated with Thousand Points of Light and Global Giving and appears quite established; MB at 2 weeks. Website insists all participants must be 16+ but worth checking in with them if our itinerary brings us in that direction, particularly if we have a car at that point. Alternate contact through Goodwill Globetrotting, evidently a UK-based Pack for a Purpose sort of clearinghouse...
Global Camps Africa: PL initiative
Global Vision International seems to have greatest range of projects in the region; most are not listed as open for families but it's worth checking, as a number of their *other* projects are open and some of these sound like they could be appropriate. Includes a couple in Swaziland. Project costs vary substantially.
Cross-Cultural Solutions - Capetown (teaching and community development) volunteering NAA
GoEco voluntourism trip (education) with side trips to penguins and safari (does not specify where); sure wish I could find independent reviews NQ
Visiting:
Zambia:
SEKA - Community theater program in (central Zambia, near South Luangwa Natl Park) which focuses on AIDS awareness and other (mostly health related) outreach efforts. For $200, will come to a tourist destination or community project near you. Affiliated with Norman Carr operation (his granddaughter is MD and one of the co-founders) and Pack for a Purpose.
Project Luangwa - Umbrella organization founded by Jo Pope (wife of Robin) which draws on resources of network of safari operators (I think all in South Luangwa) to support a number of schools, health and conservation initiatives
Room to Read - John Wood's well-financed and -connected global organization building community libraries has expanded into girls' education scholarships and school buidling as well; running a Zambia field trip on Oct 2-3 but this is unlikely to fit The Schedule
Malawi:
Malawi Children's Village - founded in 1987 by former Peace Corps volunteers; run a range of services including orphan support services, malaria nets, HIV education, to villages around Blantyre
Friends of Mulanje Orphans - UK based non-profit providing orphan support services; featured in the excellent (YA fiction) The Heaven Shop
South Africa:
South Africa National Foundation for the Conservation of Coastal Birds (i.e., working with the penguins): this is the direct link to the true research organization in Capetown, for those looking for the direct link. However, does not appear to work with families.
Booksforafrica projects near Capetown
Growing the Future - sustainable agriculture focusing on developing women's skill base; in Gansbaii/ Western Cape; alternate address via Goodwill Globetrotting. They do take volunteers but not suitable for families... too bad my jam-making skills are so rudimentary...
Angus Gillis Foundation community lending program a la Grameen with range of projects in / around Kwandwe Private Game Reserve (Eastern Cape)
Bridges Academy - well established school in Philippi (Capetown township) ; affiliated with California-based Bridges of Hope, which is classified by IRS as non profit foundation (not a charity) though FWIW it does not appear on Charity Navigator
Heifer South Africa: Community development projects, most within 2 hours of Heifer office in Limpopo; Heifer evidently also recently opened an office in Capetown (dunno if this link will hold: Darling St 8000)
Daktari (see above) near Limpopo
Imagine Scholars: Can't quite figure out exactly what this *is*; possibly just a couple funding a bunch of enrichment scholarships for a handful of hand-picked highschoolers... just below Kruger and above Swaziland; linked through idealist.org
Recommended Accommodations:
Johannesburg:
Capetown:
Kruger National Park: RG recommends renting a car and staying at park's own restcamps, which offer game drives and night walks and a "great vibe"... (More diligence, perhaps). Park also has seven breathtakingly expensive luxury lodges. Still looking for a happy medium.
KwaZulu Natal: a basically random walk brought me to The Cavern, so reviews TBD, but it looks intriguing if we do go off in that direction...
In-Country Logistics:
Rovos Train: Skip highly recommended overnight from Pretoria to Capetown $$$$
Wild Card: Parks passport-type program for all SA parks and many reserves; has family card (check once itinerary is more solid to see if it makes sense)
South African Airways: Main game in town; has travel agent arm that puts together packages; also look at the AirPass once a couple of pillars are in place
Safari Now: Short term apartments and boutique hotels as well as safari operators throughout southern Africa; recommended in Rough Guide
Greenwood Guide: Selected accommodations in South Africa, Namibia and New Zealand (?!) with vetted standards; recommended in Rough Guide
Cape Town Tourism: Booking services to national park cottages
JM's rec for renting Cape Town apartments
Robben Island: Many boats go near the island; only this museum provider is allowed to go onto the island. Guidebooks and site itself warn to book ahead on line.
Table Mountain National Park: (penguins) day pass or has cottages
Tour providers:
JK rec Robin Pope Safaris in Zambia and Malawi
Cultural visits in Port Elizabeth / easter Cape area: Calabash Tours (somewhat random walk to get there; affiliated through several degrees of separation, via UK and Netherlands Calabash Foundation, to idealist.org)
Safari tours: RG recommends Livingstone Trails, Outlook Small Group Explorations, Transfrontiers and Wildlife Safaris for Kruger. Fodors recommends SKI (which, no kidding, stands for Spend the Kids' Inheritance), South African Airways' Expressions of Africa, Cybele, Matsimba, Springbok and Welcome Tours.
HandsUp Holidays: RG rec; combines touristy with "taste of volunteering" activities. Expensive.
Baobab Travel family South Africa/Swaziland trip (RG rec) combines Kruger, Swaziland, "cultural education," and Stay Another Day add-ons such as turtle tracking, community development, etc. NAA
Pithy advice from those who've traveled the road before:
The Gills on hauling electronics through South Africa as hub on the way to other destinations (sigh)
sixintheworld on just renting a minivan and camping in the SA parks
Note: library has Fodor's South Africa 7th ed/2012, Rough Guide South Africa 2010; LP South Africa, Lesotho and Swaziland 8th ed/2009; LP Southern Africa 4th ed/2007; and Bradt Malawi 3rd 2003 (sigh)
Zoomable roadmap
Jiwire's hotspots (lots of them)
Pillars: Volunteering, Ecology, Safari
Book Bus - Zambia program has taken families before NQ and includes side trip to Victoria Falls; also does safari trips originating and ending in Lilongwe, Malawi; and another route entirely within Malawi
Orca Foundation - marine research / ecotourism with voluntouristy component an hour or so (? maybe more?) outside Capetown.
Enkosini - Alleged US registered 501(c)3 (?) affiliated with range of conservation projects, mostly around Kruger and Capetown. Essentially eco-tourism; not clear what volunteers *do*; but that may fit the bill for families... director noted that Enkosini Wildlife Reserve, Makalali Game Reserve, and Whale & Dolphin Marine Project are suitable for families. Concerned that though they list as 501(c)3, the number does not actually turn up with Charity Navigator or the IRS.
Kariega - several eco-lodges along "Garden Route" on Cape; take short term volunteers as well as eco-tourist kinds of projects
Siyafunda - Rehab center near Kruger
help2read - South African-registered NGO outside Capetown, affiliated with Books for Africa; variety
of very short term (ie office help for one afternoon) to gap year teaching opportunities (18+); Goodwill Globetrotting keeps Pack-for-a-Purpose-like wishlist running for them
you2africa - help2read-linked database of a handful of Capetown-based projects, including seven schools, taking (18+) medium and longterm volunteers
United Planet does not have program in South Africa; Tanzania teaching & orphanage programs are open to families NQM at "basic" program; NAA at full-service including (attractive) excursions
Daktari Bush School and Wildlife Orphanage: Enrichment/support for middle school kids and animal rehab center in Limpopo (near Kruger); extensive (rather cooked) TA feedback; but also affiliated with Thousand Points of Light and Global Giving and appears quite established; MB at 2 weeks. Website insists all participants must be 16+ but worth checking in with them if our itinerary brings us in that direction, particularly if we have a car at that point. Alternate contact through Goodwill Globetrotting, evidently a UK-based Pack for a Purpose sort of clearinghouse...
Global Camps Africa: PL initiative
Global Vision International seems to have greatest range of projects in the region; most are not listed as open for families but it's worth checking, as a number of their *other* projects are open and some of these sound like they could be appropriate. Includes a couple in Swaziland. Project costs vary substantially.
Cross-Cultural Solutions - Capetown (teaching and community development) volunteering NAA
GoEco voluntourism trip (education) with side trips to penguins and safari (does not specify where); sure wish I could find independent reviews NQ
Visiting:
Zambia:
SEKA - Community theater program in (central Zambia, near South Luangwa Natl Park) which focuses on AIDS awareness and other (mostly health related) outreach efforts. For $200, will come to a tourist destination or community project near you. Affiliated with Norman Carr operation (his granddaughter is MD and one of the co-founders) and Pack for a Purpose.
Project Luangwa - Umbrella organization founded by Jo Pope (wife of Robin) which draws on resources of network of safari operators (I think all in South Luangwa) to support a number of schools, health and conservation initiatives
Room to Read - John Wood's well-financed and -connected global organization building community libraries has expanded into girls' education scholarships and school buidling as well; running a Zambia field trip on Oct 2-3 but this is unlikely to fit The Schedule
Malawi:
Malawi Children's Village - founded in 1987 by former Peace Corps volunteers; run a range of services including orphan support services, malaria nets, HIV education, to villages around Blantyre
Friends of Mulanje Orphans - UK based non-profit providing orphan support services; featured in the excellent (YA fiction) The Heaven Shop
South Africa:
South Africa National Foundation for the Conservation of Coastal Birds (i.e., working with the penguins): this is the direct link to the true research organization in Capetown, for those looking for the direct link. However, does not appear to work with families.
Booksforafrica projects near Capetown
Growing the Future - sustainable agriculture focusing on developing women's skill base; in Gansbaii/ Western Cape; alternate address via Goodwill Globetrotting. They do take volunteers but not suitable for families... too bad my jam-making skills are so rudimentary...
Angus Gillis Foundation community lending program a la Grameen with range of projects in / around Kwandwe Private Game Reserve (Eastern Cape)
Bridges Academy - well established school in Philippi (Capetown township) ; affiliated with California-based Bridges of Hope, which is classified by IRS as non profit foundation (not a charity) though FWIW it does not appear on Charity Navigator
Heifer South Africa: Community development projects, most within 2 hours of Heifer office in Limpopo; Heifer evidently also recently opened an office in Capetown (dunno if this link will hold: Darling St 8000)
Daktari (see above) near Limpopo
Imagine Scholars: Can't quite figure out exactly what this *is*; possibly just a couple funding a bunch of enrichment scholarships for a handful of hand-picked highschoolers... just below Kruger and above Swaziland; linked through idealist.org
Recommended Accommodations:
Johannesburg:
Capetown:
Kruger National Park: RG recommends renting a car and staying at park's own restcamps, which offer game drives and night walks and a "great vibe"... (More diligence, perhaps). Park also has seven breathtakingly expensive luxury lodges. Still looking for a happy medium.
KwaZulu Natal: a basically random walk brought me to The Cavern, so reviews TBD, but it looks intriguing if we do go off in that direction...
In-Country Logistics:
Rovos Train: Skip highly recommended overnight from Pretoria to Capetown $$$$
Wild Card: Parks passport-type program for all SA parks and many reserves; has family card (check once itinerary is more solid to see if it makes sense)
South African Airways: Main game in town; has travel agent arm that puts together packages; also look at the AirPass once a couple of pillars are in place
Safari Now: Short term apartments and boutique hotels as well as safari operators throughout southern Africa; recommended in Rough Guide
Greenwood Guide: Selected accommodations in South Africa, Namibia and New Zealand (?!) with vetted standards; recommended in Rough Guide
Cape Town Tourism: Booking services to national park cottages
JM's rec for renting Cape Town apartments
Robben Island: Many boats go near the island; only this museum provider is allowed to go onto the island. Guidebooks and site itself warn to book ahead on line.
Table Mountain National Park: (penguins) day pass or has cottages
Tour providers:
JK rec Robin Pope Safaris in Zambia and Malawi
Cultural visits in Port Elizabeth / easter Cape area: Calabash Tours (somewhat random walk to get there; affiliated through several degrees of separation, via UK and Netherlands Calabash Foundation, to idealist.org)
Safari tours: RG recommends Livingstone Trails, Outlook Small Group Explorations, Transfrontiers and Wildlife Safaris for Kruger. Fodors recommends SKI (which, no kidding, stands for Spend the Kids' Inheritance), South African Airways' Expressions of Africa, Cybele, Matsimba, Springbok and Welcome Tours.
HandsUp Holidays: RG rec; combines touristy with "taste of volunteering" activities. Expensive.
Baobab Travel family South Africa/Swaziland trip (RG rec) combines Kruger, Swaziland, "cultural education," and Stay Another Day add-ons such as turtle tracking, community development, etc. NAA
Pithy advice from those who've traveled the road before:
The Gills on hauling electronics through South Africa as hub on the way to other destinations (sigh)
sixintheworld on just renting a minivan and camping in the SA parks
Note: library has Fodor's South Africa 7th ed/2012, Rough Guide South Africa 2010; LP South Africa, Lesotho and Swaziland 8th ed/2009; LP Southern Africa 4th ed/2007; and Bradt Malawi 3rd 2003 (sigh)
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